WHAT IS A VEST?
Broadly, a vest is a sleeveless garment covering the upper body. The word also has different connotations in English—in the UK and Commonwealth countries the word “vest” describes a tank top shirt, whereas the sleeveless upper body garment Americans call a vest is known in those parts as a waistcoat; you’ll note Barbour of England’s use of this moniker.
The term “vest” comes from the Latin vestis (clothing), thence to the Romance languages, where the French veste means “vest or jacket” and the Italian vesta means “robe or gown.” The Online Etymology Dictionary attributes the popularization of the men’s vest to King Charles II, who insisted it be worn in the court where proper attire had gone off the rails:
"The King hath yesterday, in Council, declared his resolution of setting a fashion for clothes… It will be a vest, I know not well how; but it is to teach the nobility thrift."
[Pepys, “Diary,” Oct. 8, 1666]
Charles II had borrowed the idea from English traveler and adventurer Sir Robert Shirley (1581 – 1628), who in turn had borrowed it from the Persian court of Shah Abbas the Great (1571 – 1629).
Originally a longer coat, the “vest” as it was initially called, later became the “waistcoat” as fashion demanded a shorter waist-level cut.
During the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, men often wore elaborate and brightly-coloured waistcoats.
But changing fashions in the nineteenth century demanded a more subdued palette to match the new lounge suits.
As the eighteenth century progressed, waistcoat skirts became shorter and eventually disappeared.
Complementing the coat and breeches, luxurious fabrics and decoration were emphasized for the visible areas, while those unseen were made of cheaper fabrics like linen or wool.
Reserved for the most formal occasions, the shimmering waistcoat below would have been used for court appearances or high ceremonies.
Woven entirely out of metallic threads which were difficult and costly to work with, it would have been a very expensive purchase.
WAYS TO WEAR A VEST
While a backless tuxedo vest won’t go with much besides a tuxedo jacket, even a dressy vest can be nudged into a more relaxed demeanor. And although it is in the sweater vest’s nature to relax, it willingly dresses up when you ask. A few possibilities:
- Most men’s sweater vests feel right at home with a sport jacket. Pair one with dressy trousers and chinos alike; choose a dressier shirt to wear underneath.
- You can also pair a vest with your favorite jeans; the vest will become the focus of your outfit, so make sure it fits perfectly. A crisp, white button-down shirt will polish this look. If you wish to remain completely casual, choose a plain or graphic tee, taking care to avoid an oversized shirt or a plunging neckline: neither works with a men’s vest.
- For a professional look, wear a tie with your vest. But be advised a business-on-top look does not work with too-relaxed bottoms.
- The gilet can be layered over nearly anything: try a plain sweatshirt, a knit shirt, a denim shirt, or even a lightweight jacket. Avoid wearing a patterned gilet with a patterned shirt, which looks silly.
Sources:
www.orvis.com
www.fiveminutehistory.com
www.fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu